Interesting menu and quality dining at Koda

• By Phantom Diner

If you like unusual, as in unusual décor, unusual location, unusually interesting menu and quality dining, allow me to direct you to Koda outside Harrisburg in Lower Paxton Township.

This relatively new restaurant is connected to and operates in partnership with a brewery (Newfangled Brew Works), but it offers vastly different fare and service, even feel, than is found at most such sites.

Yes, the dining room is in a cavernous industrial setting not uncommon to eating areas in breweries (or corporate cafeterias). But it has a style rarely associated with beer (or tedious workday lunches). And it has craft cocktails that will tempt even the most ardent suds fan away from his or her go-to beverage.

There are huge windows, two-story ceilings, lots of lighting. But there’s also white art deco-type scoop chairs at white wood tables with linen napkins and blue glasses filled with water from old-school, painted-glass milk bottles.

There’s a cool 10-seat bar with high-back leather stools facing the open kitchen, and a pleasing aroma emanating from a wood-fired grill.

The menu comes on a clipboard. Everything, including the booze, is locally or regionally sourced. The food is innovative, made in-house from scratch and beautifully presented. Even the butter comes in an artful design with an inlay of flavored jam.

First up for my dining partner and me were wonderful round rolls, warm and browned with a thin, slightly pretzel-flavored crust. Delicious with the jammed butter and a little ginger salt.

Next, for me, was “The Benny,” ($11) billed as “the greatest cocktail of all time.” It’s made with Kinsey Rye (a Philadelphia spirit), aromatic bitters and some maple, which creates just a slight sweetness that smooths out the drink and, in my view, pretty much supports its claim to greatness.

My partner opted for wine, choosing a silky sauvignon blanc from Waltz Estate Vineyard in Manheim ($9 a-glass). All wines by the bottle or glass are from Waltz or Grandview Vineyard in Mount Joy.

There’s also a rotating selection of Newfangled Brew Works beer on tap.

The “before supper” offerings, on what must be a changing seasonal menu, are in the $9 to $16 range, and mostly eclectic: “eggs + bacon” is a deviled egg with pork belly, toast and breakfast aioli; fried green tomatoes come with pickled blue crabmeat; mac & cheese is made with Lebanon bologna, cheddar and hard pretzel crumbs. Plus, there’s a cheese plate, cured meats and peel-and-eat shrimp.

I went with oysters, wood-grilled with sweet corn butter. While I normally prefer oysters raw, this was among the best oyster dishes I’ve tasted anywhere.

We shared a fresh $10 Caesar salad with anchovies, which was plenty for two. Then we turned our attention to a “supper” list varied enough to please almost any preference.

The “supper” list during my visit ran from a cheeseburger with house sauce and malt vinegar fries for $14, to a braised leg of lamb roulade with warm humus and cucumber yogurt for $30.

Then there was “roasted + fried chicken:” a fried leg, smoked breast with baked beans, cornbread, gravy and collard greens. There was a salmon dish, a pork chop with sweet potato hash, a vegan chickpea pasta and a “king steak” with veggies and beef-fat fries (you just know those fries are good).

My dining partner ordered gnocchi with lobster, scallop, creamed corn and jalapeño relish, a dish that brought rave reviews. I had crispy duck leg with a blackberry glaze, almonds, roasted shallots and brown butter grits. This dish came in two sizes, $16 and $27. I had the smaller version, which was plenty. And excellent. Really interesting flavors.

Desserts ($7 to $9) range from a hot fudge sundae with peanut brittle and cherries to warmed chocolate chip cookies with frothed milk. We split something called S’mores cheesecake, little squares of cake on chocolate graham and topped with mini-marshmallows, marshmallow fluff and chocolate chips. A bit decadent, but devoured nonetheless.

Four-minute French Press (Little Amps) coffee comes from the kitchen after three minutes, accompanied by a too-cute mini hour glass with a minute worth of flowing sand. Clever gimmick.

I should mention, there’s Sunday brunch with an amazing menu. Just one example: the breakfast sandwich is a fried egg with scrapple, bacon, sausage, cheese and hot sauce. Oh my.

Koda — the name is from Siouan language and variously translated as “friend,” “ally” or “Little Bear” — is run superbly by Executive Chef Christian DeLutis. His food is creative. His staff is excellent. His restaurant definitely is worth a visit.

KODA

8001 Union Station Blvd., Harrisburg

kodahbg.com

Open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., and Sunday brunch, 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.

Open for happy hour and dinner Monday through Saturday.

On-site parking; takes major cards; reservations at 717-982-6473 or kodahbg.com.